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BE YOURSELF

How important is tailoring treatments to embrace a patient’s individual beauty?

As society becomes more open-minded and diversity is increasingly celebrated, uniqueness and self-expression are coming more and more to the forefront. In the aesthetics sector, this has seen individuality become a guiding principle for both practitioners and patients, moving the industry toward a more inclusive, personalised approach that considers non-standardised concepts of beauty.

"Aesthetic practitioners like Dr Alek Nikolic emphasise the importance of respecting the diverse nature of beauty, recognising that beauty standards are heavily influenced by ethnicity, culture, and age.

"Each patient possesses distinct ratios and features, alongside their individual beauty ideals and cultural perspectives. It's crucial to acknowledge these factors during the examination and consultation process, ensuring thorough discussion before initiating any treatment options," he says.

Aesthetic practitioner, Dr Melanie Lambrecht, agrees, stating, "A detailed patient consultation is a must to better understand the patient’s needs and insights." She does, however, emphasise that both the practitioner and patient need a clear set of lenses when deciding what treatments are appropriate and do not leave the patient compromised. "Many patients' wishes are influenced by passing social media trends, and it is not always understood that changes cannot always be reversed. Practitioners must be open to saying no when a treatment is simply not applicable to an individual, even when seen through the veil of inclusivity."

EXPANDING KNOWLEDGE

"In South Africa, where the range of skin colors and conditions is diverse, clinics must expand their knowledge to effectively treat all skin types," emphasises aesthetic practitioner, Dr Thys Heyns. He is pleased to report the availability of numerous training modalities in the country, some of which he is involved with, that focus on individuality and inclusiveness.

"It's crucial for clinics to ensure all staff undergo training to better cater to diverse patient groups," adds Dr Lambrecht. She highlights the differences in conditions like hyperpigmentation and acne across various skin types and age groups.

When it comes to understanding injectables, like botulinum toxin and dermal fillers, across cultural divides, Dr Lambrecht advises against imposing Western standards of beauty on treatments. "Delicate care should be taken to ensure all patients remain culturally secure in their features and outcomes," she advises.

She also emphasises the importance of clinics conducting a thorough analysis of their offered treatments and their compatibility with different skin types. "Many lasers and other energy-based devices may not be suitable for darker skin tones. Hence, it's prudent to provide treatments suitable for these skin types. Additionally, maintaining a diverse range of skincare products catering to various skin types is crucial."

A MOVE AWAY FROM “ANTI-AGEING”

As well as ethnically and gender-diverse patients seeking treatments that respect their unique features and preferences, the industry is starting to shed the term ‘anti-ageing’. Instead of conforming to a narrow beauty ideal, the industry is adapting to offer personalised treatment plans that consider individual needs, cultural contexts, and a wider range of options.

The perspective on aging skin age has evolved. Today’s modern approach is about embracing skin change as part of the natural process, empowering our true selves at every stage of life. The concept of “anti-ageing” is outdated, as it implies that aging is undesirable. Instead, the focus has shifted to pro-ageing, rejecting societal pressures and embracing authenticity and confidence without fear of aging or appearing older, fear of growing older or appearing older.

For Piroska Cavell, the founder and medical director of Clinic Sese in Kent in the UK, embracing this trend is also about focusing on self-love. “I focus on empowering my patients and helping them choose treatments from a place of self-love, not self-loathing, which is too often their starting point, having been confronted so frequently with perceived beauty idealisation and ageism”, she says. “My patient demographic is predominantly 50+, and their perceived loss of attractiveness is complex and related to several issues, including a variety of media platforms perpetuating unrealistic beauty ideals and ageism. It is extremely important with all patients, especially this age group who may be suffering from a loss of confidence, to talk about how we will highlight some of their best features.”

SUBTLE TWEAKMENTS

While for some patients, expressing their individuality may mean altering their appearance in more noticeable ways, there is another trend emerging towards more natural results as a way of embracing who you are. There is a real move for a subtle approach to aesthetics, embracing one’s natural beauty and enhancing it discreetly.

In the pursuit of natural facial aesthetics, cosmetic treatments delve beyond superficial enhancements, prioritising a profound understanding of facial anatomy and the ageing process,” says Dr Cathy Davies. “Rather than just adding volume at the surface, the focus lies in treating each layer intricately. By comprehensively addressing the underlying structures, from muscle to fat pads, and considering the dynamics of facial movement, practitioners aim to achieve results that harmonise with the individual’s unique features. This approach avoids the common pitfalls of creating a puffy or overfilled appearance, opting instead for a rejuvenated look that respects the natural contours of the face.”

Dentist with a special interest in aesthetic medicine, Dr Bhana also observes a trend towards patients seeking more natural-looking results. She sees non-invasive approaches as valuable for providing subtle enhancements that are age appropriate and respect the natural beauty of each patient. “By focusing on enhancing rather than altering, we ensure that treatments complement individual features and preferences,” she says. “Patients are not looking to erase every line but rather pursue a more holistic and natural appearance. In addition to in-clinic procedures, they are receptive to treatment plans that prioritise optimising skin health and overall well-being, focussing on lifestyle factors like healthy eating and exercise regimens.”

A SKIN-FIRST APPROACH

However, an individual chooses to express themselves, healthy skin is a universally agreed upon foundation and treatments that focus on skin health and good skincare, and lifestyle factors are key. There’s a growing trend among patients seeking treatments that improve the health and appearance of the skin, so they do not have to wear makeup. There is no change in the person’s facial structure or movement; it is about achieving the most natural result.

“Prioritising skin health, quality and rejuvenation over structural changes emphasises the importance of maintaining skin integrity and promoting overall well-being,” explains Dr Bhana. “Aesthetic treatments should enhance skin vitality and radiance, while preserving its natural characteristics.”

But there’s still a way to go in terms of educating consumers about their skincare needs, and Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, chemical engineer, skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass in the UK, believes practitioners need to enhance their knowledge to meet this need better. “One survey revealed that 71% of consumers felt that their skincare needs weren’t being met. By investing in advanced skincare science knowledge, practitioners can gain skills that allow them to have a greater understanding of product formulas and to match the product ingredient list to the function, quality, and effectiveness of the product. By mastering this skill and the methodology of an educational skincare consultation process, they can correctly identify the best-suited treatment protocol for the patient and create a truly personalised and transformational skincare routine that uniquely suits their patient’s individual needs.”

A PERSONALISED APPROACH

Nothing embraces a person’s individuality more than personalised medicine, which moves away from a one-size-fits-all approach and embraces an individual’s specific and unique needs. Factions of medicine, such as functional and lifestyle medicine, are merging more and more with aesthetics. Being patient-centric and health-focused, rather than having a disease-management approach, is becoming increasingly popular.

Dr Nickolic explains, “A thorough history of what concerns the patient and an in-depth examination by the practitioner are vital to achieve a successful outcome. Engaging the patient throughout the process helps set realistic expectations and a mutually agreed upon result.”

The primary focus should revolve around addressing the patient’s chief concerns and goals. Dr Heyns highlights another aspect of this evolution, noting a shift towards a holistic approach in aesthetics. “Many aesthetic practitioners also practice anti-ageing and functional medicine, incorporating screening and blood tests to assess patients’ overall health in addressing outward signs of ageing,” he says.” If a practitioner does not offer these services, and suspects underlying metabolic, hormonal or other medical conditions, they should refer the patient to a physician or GP for a comprehensive evaluation.”

This article appears in May 2024

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May 2024
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